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Huesca walk, Aragon Pyrenees

  • Gothic Cathedral of Huesca

  • Traditional dancers "Danzantes"

The pleasent placidness of Huesca (population 45.485) and its distinction as an ancient city is appreciated at once by visitors. While getting to know the city, we are reminded of its prominent role in the Kingdom of Aragon. The old city is perched on a hill inhabited formerly by Iberians, Romans, Arabs and the first Christian Aragonese. The sloping streets within this small area are crowned by the Cathedral.

Our tour begins at the Plaza del Seminario with the Provincial museum (open 9 am to 2 pm except Monday). King Ramiro II of Aragon. A former monk, according to the legend, beheaded a dozen rebellious noblement to compel respect an placed their heads on the ground in the shape of a bell. In another room, his daughter the Princess Doña Petronila was born. When she married the Count of Barcelona, it united Aragon and Catalonia. In the nearby Town Hall (16th century), typical of Aragonese construction, an oil painting is displayed which depicts the tale of the well which rang as if it were made of bronze.

Opposite stands the Gothic Cathedral with it imposing main doorway sculpted with 62 figures, a rose window and Renaissance additions. There are important Codex in the Diocesan Museum (open 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.) and an interesting Sacristy. The famous altarpiece is delicately worked in alabaster, a material used often in building and decoration, found in abundance in Aragon. Steep streets take us to the Plaza del Mercado and the Monastery of San Pedro El Viejo (12th century) with the Royal Pantheon and one of the loveliest Romanesque cloisters in Spain. Nearby is the Basilica of San Lorenzo, a Huescan saint who died roasted by the Romans on a gridiron. The church has the shape of an inverted gridiron. Huescans celebrate festivals in August with plenty of gaiety and basil, a typical plant carried in bouquets by the young girls.

Descending to what were once the city walls, presently El Coso, we arrive at the new quarter with modern streets. Here we find a romantic park with some two hundred species of trees surrounding the House of Snow White and a Rose Garden. The Cuatro Esquinas (Four Corners), in the Porches de Galicia, is a vibrant part of the city. The recently built Diputacion Provincial (County Council) houses a magnificent exhibit hall and a grand mural by the Huescan painter Saura. The Church o Las Miguelas (12th century), next to the Isuela river at the exit of the city in the direction of the town of Canfranc and France, and the 12th century Hermitage of Salas, built at the edge of the capital, complete the group of Romanesque buildings in Huesca.

There are famed restaurants with traditional and imaginative cuisine in Huesca. Pollo al chilindron (chicken cooded with peppers) is one the specialities. Muslim influence has left sweet reminders with the marzipan chestnuts.

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